End to End - At Last!

The Poms seem to have a fascination with going End to End, that is Land's End to John O'Groats either on foot or by bike. Well, today we finally did it (by car) and it only took us 35 years...

So our day began with a quick trip to the local tourist attraction in Lairg, the Falls of Shin. Although not particularly remarkable, if you are there at the right time you can see the salmon jumping - we were a bit late in the morning so we missed that sight.Anyway, we bigger objectives in mind, we pressed on to the east coast and then turned north. Even though the weather was much better today, this time we rushed on past Dunrobin Castle. Shortly before Wick, we stopped at the little coastal village of Lybster for some morning tea. Although very working-class and otherwise unremarkable, it had a quaint little harbour at the foot of the cliff it was perched on.

 The main street of Lybster

Lybster harbour

We got going again towards the end of Scotland, taking a quick drive around Wick as we passed through. Our road map had the Old Wick Castle marked on it so we went to find it. Wasn't worth the effort - one boarded-up, derelict tower in the middle of a housing estate. It might mean something to somebody but it didn't do much for me.We covered the last few miles into John O'Groats. By now the countryside had changed considerably from the mountains and hills of the Highlands. Flat, open and wind swept - it is easy to understand why some people wonder why they bothered going when they finally get there. Anyway, we did the important thing when we got there - we had our photograph taken at the signpost. Now we have one for Land's End and one for John O'Groats.

 Looking off the end of the mainland with John O'Groats in the distance

The famous John O'Groats signpost

After a spot of lunch we set off to Duncansby Head and to see the Duncansby Stacks. We didn't go all the way to the Stacks because there were some other things we wanted to do and we needed to make sure we didn't run out of time. Our next stop was The Castle and Gardens of Mey - the holiday home of the Queen Mother for almost 50 years. Although we arrived in bight sunlight, nasty grey clouds were forming so it visit the gardens first. Unfortunately, like all other gardens we had visited, it was still a bit too early to see them at their best (our next holiday over here will have to be in late summer). The castle itself was amazing. Unlike all the other royal palaces, this one was owned by the Queen Mother and she could decorate it as she wished. It was like walking into a time warp (Britannia was the same). Most of the furniture dated from the 1950's when she first bought the derelict castle and had it restored.

 Duncansby Head lighthouse

 The Duncansby Stacks

 The Castle of Mey

The Castle of Mey from the East Garden

By the time we had toured the castle and got outside, the weather was closing in. We made our way further along the coast to Dunnet Head, the genuine most northerly point of mainland Britain. Why then has John O'Groats incorrectly acquired that distinction? Economics and practicalities - the photographer that set up the sign post at John O'Groats in the 1950's to sell photographs to the tourists would have very quickly gone out of business in the wilds of Dunnet Head. With rain now seriously threatening, we had a quick look at the lighthouse and the remains of the World War 2 base before taking shelter in the car.

Dunnet Head lighthouse with the Isle of Hoy in the background

 Looking along the coast towards John O'Groats

 Remnants of the World War 2 base at Dunnet Head

By now it was getting rather late and time to think about heading back to Lairg. We decided to continue west for a while across the very top of Scotland. We passed through Thurso and Strathy and came to Bettyhill. Here the modern two land road suddenly became a single track again - not that this should surprising, it is the Scottish Highlands after all. Soon after Bettyhill we turned south. By now it was raining heavily as we splashed our way down to Syre where we had been two days earlier. So traveling over familiar territory, we passed by Loch Naver and on towards Lairg until we came to the Crask Inn.

 A lonely phonebox near Bettyhill

Looking over Loch Naver after the rain

This time we were in luck and stayed for dinner. It was a gloriously odd event which has to be experienced to be fully appreciated. We sat in the Bar having a drink until they were ready to serve dinner. First, the publican came out with a menu handwritten on a piece of paper. It was obviously based on whatever his wife had cooked up that night. Orders were taken and we were called through to the Dining Room when they were ready to serve. The meals were simple and delicious - all the vegetables were home grown. And in the background while we dined, one of the locals played an electronic organ.

Quite simply, a fantastic way to end our stay in the Highlands.

The rather lonely Crask Inn