Soaring Eagles

Today is the Sabbath...and in the Outer Hebrides that means nothing is open...except for churches. With advance warning from guide books, we had prepared for the Sabbath by planning for a simple day of taking some walks. We set off after breakfast for Hushinish which is at the end of the road in West Harris. The main attraction here is a walk up a hill that will allow you to see the Isles of St Kilda on a good day.

The "moonscape" of Finsbay

Luskentyre Beach on the west side of South Harris

Although the day had started off OK, as we went it started to cloud over. With the view of St Kilda in doubt, we stopped off along the way at Loch Mhiabhaig to take a walk to the Harris Eagle Observatory. About 2 miles in from the road along a four-wheel drive track, the observatory overlooks the territory of a resident pair of Golden Eagles. We arrived at the observatory, sat down and waited...before long, high above the adjacent hills, a pair of soaring eagles came into view. Ok, so they were so far away that they weren't much more than specs in the sky...but they were clearly eagles and beautiful to watch as they soared on the wind.

Looking up to the home of the Golden Eagles

After the eagles has passed out of sight, we walked back to the car and continued our drive to the end of the road. Along the way, the road passes through the privately owned Amhuinnsuidhe Castle estate...quite literally through the front gate, past the front door, out the arch and past the stables...if you didn't know any better you would think that you have gone past the end of the road and were on private property. At the end of the road we went for a walk on Hushinish Beach but didn't stay long...it was cloudy and threatening rain and that brought the midges out in full strength.

The road goes right past the front door of Amhuinnsuidhe Castle...

...and out through the arch

Hushinish Beach

On the way out we had seen signs at the Amhuinnsuidhe Castle stables advertising hold and cold drinks, ice creams and other items for sale. It seemed a bit strange for the Sabbath but we stopped off anyway on the way back...and discovered the quirkiest shop ever. Inside the stable was a collection of fridges loaded with food and ice creams, benches with souvenirs and kettles and the makings for tea and coffee...and an honesty box. True to the Sabbath, there was no one there...and they were doing a really good trade with everyone just "leaving their money on the fridge".

When we got back to the main road, instead of turning back towards Tarbert we turned north and climbed the mountain range and dropped over in to the North Harris region...eventually coming to Rhenigidale down on the coast. By now the rain that had been threatening all day was finally with us...so it seemed to be a good point to call it a day and head back...to dinner at our B&B. Due to their somewhat remote location, Allan and Panch offered dinners...something only a few B&B's do...and being the Sabbath with no other options available, it was an offer we took up. All I can say is that dinner was fantastic...much, much better than you get in most restaurants.

Loch Shiphoirt in North Harris